Alright, so you are out to have some fun. You saw The Beach, and you have heard about this party. Of course, it is only the biggest beach party in Southeast Asia or pretty much the whole world for that matter. Once a month, when the moon is full, backpackers from all over make the journey to a small beach on a small island in the Gulf of Thailand to play with fire and get wasted!
The concept sure is nice, but the fact of the matter is the actually party can be dissapointing to some. They expect to have a full on, intense experience. What they find are a bunch of drunk people and shady characters. Ladyboy packs roam the beach looking for opportunities to rob you. Don't even dream of setting your phone down for 1 minute on the table in front of you. As soon as you can turn your head it will be gone. Trust me, it has happened to me, and I have seen it happen to many others. Phones can be sold in a heartbeat, so this is one thing best left in your bungalow for the night.
I know you are probably thinking that if you shouldn't take anthing of value, then what should you do with your camera. Surely, you will want to take pictures of this event. Who knows when or if you will come back to Thailand again right? Go ahead and take it with you, but be aware of where it is all of the time. Do not set it down. If you can, keep it in a pocket that buttons closed, and by all means make sure you use the button!
There is a lot of debate about the full moon party. Environmentally friendly people claim that it destroys the beach. To some extent this is true. If you go wear shoes because there is broken glass from beer bottles everywhere. That being said, the locals do a pretty good job of cleaning up the beach when the party is over. More importantly, the party brings much needed tourist dollars to local economy.
Another criticism of the party is the massive overdevelopment of Haad Rin. Seriously, this should have been prevented somehow. Haad Rin (sunrise) beach used to be a beautiful and pristine beach in every sense of the word, but it has turned into a largely overdeveloped mess. The small space now has clubs, bars, restaurants, and resorts lining every square foot of the beach. It is still a nice beach, but it is very much a cluttered one. Crowds and the vendors that go along with the incoming Baht have given rise to a very congested area.
Don't expect first rate music either. The local DJ's are ok, but they are nothing to write home about. You aren't going to have the same experience as is if you were in some warehouse somewhere in Brooklyn in the 90's listening to the likes of Frankie Bones or Micro behind the turntables. The music is average.
So far this assessment has been mostly negative. I just wanted to point out the fact that there are a lot of negative aspects regarding this party. You might then wonder why on Earth, I have been to so many. The bottom line is that I still have a good time at this party nearly every time I decide to go. The trademark buckets are omnipresent, and dancing on the beach can be good fun. It all depends on the type of attitude you have. I remain optimistic about the party. I go with good people, and I enjoy their company. Generally, I get wasted beyond all recognition, but I make sure I go with someone who will look out after the whole group.
Speaking of groups, you will often find that you clique with certain people at your bungalow. Nearly everyone is going to the party, so it should not be hard to find a companion or ten to go with. It is highly recommended that you go with at least a few other people. Doing this will help to ensure your safety. I tend to go with the staff where I stay and mostly Thai people which helps me get the price of drinks down! If you meet some locals on the island, they might be willing to go with you. This adds an element of Thainess in a world that is dominated by farang.
As for which bars are best, it is better not to recommend one. You have all night to wander the beach and decide which one is right for you. I tend to go to Drop In, but Cactus draws a pretty good crowd. They all have different music.
Fire dancing is a big thing. It is not uncommon to see a circle formed around fire dancers. They can be entertaining for a while. If you are skilled in this area, you can go ahead and give it a shot. There are stories of some new games involving fire surfacing recently. I will amend this section when I have some first hand knowledge. They also use fire to illuminate large signs.
New Years Eve is a huge party as well. The fireworks are pretty nice to watch, but as with anything, they too can be dangerous. Last New Years Eve, one of them exploded before it took off. I happened to be a few feet away. Thankfully, nobody was injured, but it could have been much, much worse for everyone involved.
WARNING: Drugs are a serious thing. I am not a saint, nor am I your mother. Drugs are everywhere on Koh Phangan. This is no mystery. Everything from weed to mushrooms to ecstasy are around. However, people often don't know where to look. The fact of the matter is that drugs are highly illegal in Thailand. If you are caught with drugs, penalties include death. Although, death is not likely for a small amount of pot, prison time most certainly is if you don't have the appropriate amount of tea money on hand to pay the authorities. Even if you think you know a safe place to buy drugs, you really don't have any idea of the kinds of hardships that the local is going through. It is all too easy to drop your name to the police and get a kickback from that tea money you had to shell out. This is Thailand, and things are not the same as they are back in farangland. Roadblocks are set up all of the time. You can be searched at any time. Buying on the beach could be from an undercover agent. These risks are up to you, but you cannot say that you have not been warned.