When I left off, I was on the plane drinking. I will pick up from there . . .
I got off of the plane in Bangkok at Don Muang. I recall the butterflies in my stomach as the plane began to decend upon the city. I hadn't really met anyone on the plane like I thought I might. I had read about all of these scams at the airport with taxis, but I knew that I should just go to the taxi stand. All of a sudden, I realized that I didn't really have a clue where the taxi stand was! Recalling my past experience in Peru, I envisioned a horde of people as a cleared the barrier into the country. Obviously, the difference was that I was alone this time.
So, I ring the bell and ask for a beer while I try to think about things! Again, being a typical guy, I was not about to pull out my guidebook or even ask the person next to me. I sat there drinking my beer filling out my arrival card. It asked me for my address in Thailand!!! Just what the hell was I supposed to put in this box. I hadn't read anything about that, so I decided to leave it blank! (I know better now) Then, I thought to myself - "what if the internet is wrong and I don't find a room in the Khao San area?" Fuck, all kinds of shit was popping into my head. At the same time, it was quite exciting.
We touched down, and I followed the crowd to the tarmac and to the little bus that took us to the terminal. As soon as I stepped outside, the heat and humidity hit me like a ton of bricks. As if I wasn't already nervous, the sweat was going to surely make me look suspicious. Whatever, I just went with it. I got on the bus and continued following the crowd through the airport. Now, this is my first impression of Thailand, as I am sure it has been for most people arriving before the new airport. I compared it with the Lima, Peru airport, and I found it alright. I knew I wasn't in the states, but it was acceptable.
I took my place in line to get my stamp! Ok, this wasn't so bad. I trusted my research and calculated that I had about a 99.9% chance of getting through without any problems. My turn finally comes, and I step up to the counter. I hand my documents over to the official. He looks at my arrival card immediately. Of course, the question "Where are you going?" came quite quickly. Now the nervousness and anxiety were mounting. I though to myself - "oh shit"!!! I told him that I had no idea. He said "What hotel are you going to?" I said, I don't know!!!! I am going to Khao San Road! He went about his business and stamped me in with a smile. Confused as hell, I simply walked away and put my passport in my pocket!
While waiting for my bags, I grabbed one or two of those free maps which came in handy later on. My bag took about a year to come out, and I was dying for a smoke. Finally, my blue Eagle Creek bag came out. I broke through the barrier to the outside. Sure, there were a bunch of people around, but it was nothing like Peru. Finally, I got a break. I saw a money exchange counter and changed a $100 travelers cheque. So, I had 4000 baht or so in my pocket. I was rejuvinated. I walked to the nearest door to have a smoke before figuring out where that damn taxi stand was. As I stood there lighting my cigarette, I saw the yellow sign for the taxi stand. Everything was beautiful for once. I enjoyed my smoke away from the line because I don't like to smoke around non-smokers if I can help it. I find it kind of rude.
So, I got in line. I started chatting with the folks in front of me. The couple was very friendly. They were also on their first trip. Of course, I asked where they were headed. They were going to the A-1. I didn't know much, but I knew that wasn't close to where I was going. They went on and on about how it only cost them about $10 for the room. After explaining what I was doing, they couldn't understand and almost insisted that I go with them. I politely refused. Soon they were on their way, and I told them I wanted to go to Khao San. A taxi pulled up. He turned the meter on. We were off!
My taxi driver didn't speak a whole hell of a lot of English, so it was a pretty quiet ride. I really didn't mind because I wanted to look at everything I possibly could. He was flying down the highway. I was looking at the strangeness of the Thai script, the odd placement and size of the billboards, and the scattered disarray of the city's development. When we got down to street level, I was even more in shock. This was unlike anything I had ever seen. At the same time, I found myself wondering if this driver even knew where the hell he was going, or maybe he was taking me for a ride. Either way, I had no idea, so I kept my damn mouth shut and kept looking around.
We were headed towards democracy monument, so I knew we weren't going in the completely wrong direction. Soon, the driver made a right hand turn and I saw a Burger King. Before I knew it, the driver stopped. I looked to my left and saw the glowing neon that is Khao San. I got out and he told me it would be 340 baht or something. I handed him a 1000 note and he gave me back the full amount of change. Being American, I tipped him 60 baht, and he went on his way!
So, there I am at the end of Khao San. My backpack is still on the asphalt, and I am completely dumbfounded. I had seen the pictures, but I didn't expect this. There were people all over even though it was about 2:30 am. Shit, where would I go. I picked up my backpack and decided to walk on up the road. I saw plenty of places to stay, but I decided to hold out before walking into any of them. Truth be told, it was partly out of nervousness and partly because I wanted to get a feel for the place.
Eventually, I made it up to Lek Guesthouse. Most people will probably know where this place is. I finally decided to check out a place, so I walked up the shitty narrow stairs to the quasi-reception and asked if they had a room. I asked to check one of them out. Oh my god, I was appauled when I saw the room. It was something similar to what homeless people build under a bridge! The walls were super thin. The bed was in a terrible condition. I stood up there wondering what I was going to do. Is this what I had resigned myself to for the upcoming months? I was on a serious budget, so I got a bit paranoid.
I went down and politely said no thanks. Just then, I came across another backpacker looking for a room on the street. The Irish guy asked me what the rooms were like, and I gave him my honest opinion. I explained my situation, and we decided to go have a look as a team. We made our way all the way to the police station end of Khao San when we finally got to Rainbow Guesthouse. We really did not want to walk back with our bags. These rooms were still shitty, but they were much better than what I had just seen. I grabbed a fan room for about 250 baht, and he got an air-con unit.
A feww minutes later, he resolved to buy me my first beer in Thailand. He was flying out the next night and had just come from Phuket. So, we walked back down Khao San without our bags making some small talk. For some reason, and I am not sure if it is still this way, the bar (I think it is called Buddy Bar) that is above McDonalds was still open for business selling beer. The rest of the places wouldn't sell a drop. He bought be a Chang, and he proceeded to tell me his story of the last month he had spent in Thailand. In reality, I was in shock. I couldn't even focus on what he was saying. I saw young guys just like me playing pool with these beautiful girls. I was shocked by how beautiful these girls were. I couldn't talk to this guy! I was pretty tired, so after 3 beers bought by this Irish guy I decided to call it a night. He decided to do the same. My first food in Thailand came as we stood outside of Gullivers waiting to cross the street to Rainbow. Of course, it was chicken on a stick for 5 baht. I had two and headed to my room! |